- 4 min read

An Englishwoman in Japan

Japan is a baffling, brilliant experience

It’s my final day in Japan before I head to an airport hotel for the night, and the choice of what to do before I leave is obvious; it’s time for some gyoza from my favourite restaurant. I’ve frequented Machida’s Tiger Gyoza Hall many a time now after a long day in Tokyo. It has become somewhere where I can meet friends, grab a beer, or just sit and relax before the final stretch of my journey home.

As I sit there and struggle to pick up one of the slippery, delicious dumplings between my chopsticks - naturally dripping sauce all over my clean t-shirt - I consider the month I have spent in Japan, Tokyo and Karuizawa specifically. One of the first things that comes to mind, considering the weather I have walked through to get to this restaurant, is how hot and humid Japan is in July. That is something I will not miss… and will next time come more prepared for.

This is just an instant reaction. When you’re immersed in what feels frighteningly similar to a sauna 24/7, it’s hard to avoid thinking about; in reality, I have so many wonderful, important memories of Japan, and these are the ones which will stay with me forever.

I’ll remember walking home in the rain from a park, running into a ramen shop for shelter. I tested my limited Japanese skills through a very stilted, very slow conversation with the chef, and I’ve never felt so proud of myself in my life.

I’ll remember standing at the top level of the Tokyo Skytree, staring down at the city below and watching the rain drops fall fast from the windows of the observatory.

I’ll remember my trips to Harajuku, the constant streams of “kawaii!” from every direction, the fantastic shops, and enormous crepes filled with cream and tiramisu, of all things. Something that will remain another of my proudest, happiest moments is my first press launch - the opening of the amazingly cool, seriously surreal Kawaii Monster Café.

I’ll remember my first time sitting on a heated toilet seat.

Man, was that a surprise.

I’ll remember the most intense matcha experience of my life - Nana’s Green Tea Café. I’d never consumed so much green tea before, and I probably won’t again, but wow, that chocolate-matcha gateau was absolutely out of this world.

If I’m honest, it’s probably the food that I’ll miss the most about Japan. Matcha is practically impossible to come by in the United Kingdom, and unfortunately one of my favourite flavours. It’s not just the green tea stuff I’ll miss, though - the soba noodles and tempura in Karuizawa’s Kagimotoya was one of the most delicious things I’d ever eaten. I’ll probably have dreams about that tempura…

Oni-Oshi-Dashi park in Gunma prefecture: the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen.

Ah, and Akihabara. While it may be some people’s idea of a nightmare, with its insanely busy streets, over-stimulating billboards all over the place, and the ridiculously narrow shop aisles that make it difficult to manoeuvre through, I am a huge anime fan, so it’s more like my idea of heaven. It will remain one of my favourite places in the world.

Food. Friends. Flying squirrels. Yes; these, I shall miss.

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Justin Velgus 8 years ago
Nice to know I am not the only one addicted to gyoza!
Mandy Bartok 8 years ago
It sounds like you had a memorable month in Japan, Livvy. Thanks for all of your posts!

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