Yamagata is famous for many things, from tourist areas like Yamadera or Zao to food like cherries, La France pears, and soba. When I went there, I was hoping to have soba, but yakisoba wasn't the first thing that came to mind. Luckily for me, I walked past Papa Yakisoba.
It's not in the most central location – I found it completely by accident while trying to find something else – but it isn't hard to find. Just take the east exit from Yamagata Station until you find it on the right – it should take about 20 minutes.
Papa is only a small place, and relatively new. There are a few counter seats, and two tables that seat four people. All of the food is made by the owner, in a little kitchenette, right in front of you. While you're waiting for him to cook your order, help yourself to water and listen to the music – all the latest American pop hits.
The menu ranges from a simple yakisoba to the special – yakisoba with everything. You can add toppings for a little extra, such as egg, squid and prawns, and there are two sizes to choose from. One or two of the items, like the special, can be made as salty yakisoba instead of sauce yakisoba. All orders come with a soup – a clear broth with tiny shrimp in it – except for take-out. The prices are very reasonable, and if you go between 3pm and 6pm, some items are ¥100 cheaper.
You know that if attention is paid to the basics, then a restaurant is good, so I tried the simple sauce yakisoba. Fresh from the pan, it was steaming on my plate, with good chunks of cabbage and juicy pieces of meat. To one side was a helping of pickled ginger. There was sauce on the table so I added extra, because it was so delicious, and some aonori flakes – powdery seaweed that I don't find yakisoba the same without. Only the heat stopped me from eating it too fast. The soup was pleasant enough, but maybe not to everyone's taste.
Papa Yakisoba is a wonderful little restaurant that serves very moreish yakisoba at reasonable prices. It's entirely worth the walk from the station.
