By Rod Walters   Oct 13, 2011

The island of Shikoku consists of 4 prefectures: Ehime, Kagawa, Kōchi, and Tokushima, formerly the feudal districts known as Iyo, Sanuki, Tosa and Awa. This explains why the name of the island is written with the Chinese characters for ‘four countries’.

Shikoku was only joined to the main island of Japan by a bridge in 1988, and before then, the only way to get to Shikoku was by ship. Despite its isolation, Shikoku has had a strong influence on the rest of Japan. The Buddhist monk Kukai was born and raised in Kagawa, and he’s credited with founding the Shikoku Pilgrimage of 88 temples after visiting China to learn about esoteric Buddhism. Even today, the pilgrimage holds an important place in Japanese life. Folk of all ages and classes undertake the circuit of Shikoku to develop their spirituality or to cleanse themselves of some flaw. Through their tradition of hospitality towards pilgrims, the people of Shikoku are said to have become gentle and welcoming.

Although it has always been a backwater, the people of Shikoku have played important roles in Japanese history. Ryōma Sakamoto of Kōchi played a major role in the overthrow of feudalism, and today, the people of Japan seem to be searching for a modern Sakamoto to foment changes in the body politic. They visit Kōchi to gaze on his statue and consume a dizzying range of products labeled with his iconic image.

Today Shikoku is linked to Honshu by three bridge systems, with spectacular suspension bridges leapfrogging across the islands of the Inland Sea. The Seto Ohashi Bridge is the longest continuous bridge system in the world, and it’s a sight to be seen, while the Shimanami Kaido is a magnet for cyclists. There are also numerous ferry services linking Shikoku to the other islands, and a boat trip over the Inland Sea is sure to be memorable.

Shikoku is a calm and quiet sort of place. It’s the only island of Japan without any volcanoes, nor does it lie in the routes that typhoons typically follow. The pace of life is slow, and here people enjoy the high quality food and beverages that a mild climate bestow. That’s not to say that Shikoku is bland however. The interior of the island is rugged, with the highest mountain in southwest Japan, Mt. Ishizuchi, whose jagged, angular peak is coated in snow for half the year. There are two major rivers, the Yoshino and Shimanto Rivers which draw visitors from all over to experience rafting and canoeing on their dramatic, isolated waters. For outdoor adventure, there’s nowhere better. The Seto Inland Sea has calm, cold water, ideal for fishing and diving, while the warm, glassy swells of the Pacific in Kōchi attract surfers and whale watchers. Festivals in Shikoku are strange and wonderful—massed ranks of strangely attired dancers, violent clashes between portable shrines, perambulating devil bulls, and enough fireworks to make the night seem like day.

Written by Rod Walters
Japan Travel Member

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