A Guide to Tono City and Hanamaki City

Japan is full of undiscovered destinations where preserved history and culture exist alongside local life.

Two such hidden gems are Tono City and Hanamaki City in Iwate Prefecture. Located roughly in the heart of this prefecture, these neighboring cities act as gateways to different worlds—showcasing traditional customs, folktales, and long-running local businesses in communities free from crowds. In these endearing cities, you can immerse yourself in the regional cultures and interact with locals.

In this article, we will introduce some of the cities’ prime activities, restaurants, and accommodations.

Getting to and around Tono and Hanamaki

From outside of Iwate, Tono and Hanamaki’s most convenient point of access is Shin-Hanamaki Station. Shin-Hanamaki Station is located along the Tohoku Shinkansen and is easily accessible from Tokyo all the way to Shin-Aomori Station. From Tokyo Station, Shin-Hanamaki Station is approximately 2.5 hours away if you ride the fastest type of train. Once at Shin-Hanamaki Station, downtown Hanamaki is about a ten-minute train ride away. Tono Station is an approximately 45- to 55-minute train ride away via the JR Kamaishi Line.

Hanamaki is also home to Iwate Hanamaki Airport, which services domestic flights from across Japan and international flights from Taiwan and Shanghai. The airport is only about a 10-minute drive away from Shin-Hanamaki Station.

In terms of getting around Tono and Hanamaki, the most convenient mode of transportation is a rental car since public transportation can be sparse. The uncongested roads and pleasant countryside scenery make for a comfortable drive. Though, if you visit the areas during winter, please be mindful of the snow.

Tono City

Blessed with nature and encircled by mountains, Tono is a picturesque place where traditional Japanese ways of living are still a part of everyday life. Among its many attributes, the city is perhaps most famous for its vibrant folklore heritage, being the birthplace of over 100 unique tales that are immortalized in the book The Legends of Tono by Kunio Yanagita.

Culture and attractions

MACHIBURA: Tono City walking tour

A great way to start your exploration of Tono is with a MACHIBURA walking tour led by the Tono Travel Delicatessen. Offered in English, this guided tour leads you through Tono’s well-established shops and provides interesting background information about the city. The traditional cityscape set against mountains and decorated with various folkloric creatures makes for a visually-intriguing stroll. Keep your eyes peeled for kappa (water spirits), zashiki-warashi (lucky child spirits), and other supernatural beings as you explore the city. Although the tour’s destinations vary depending on your preference, listed below are some of the city’s notable shops. At each spot, you will meet new people, try fun activities, and receive a commemorative souvenir.

If you would rather explore Tono without a guide, you can also purchase K-tickets (short for Kappa tickets) at Tono Travel Delicatessen. Each ticket costs 150 yen and can be exchanged for an experience. For instance, the Tsurunoya experience below costs four K-tickets. More information is available online or in-person at the tourism center.

Tsurunoya

Tsurunoya is a Japanese confectionery that has been in business for over 100 years. Presently run by its third-generation owner, the sweets shop sells airy mochi (rice cake) and Akagarasu (明がらす), a Tono specialty made from rice flour, wheat flour, black sesame, sugar, and walnuts, resulting in an addicting not-too-sweet flavor. At this establishment, you can try your hand at making a kappa-shaped wagashi (traditional Japanese sweet). Kappa are mischievous river-dwelling creatures that have human and reptilian features. Your wagashi will mimic a kappa’s face. The wagashi-making process is easy to follow and results in a cute and delicious sweet.

Chikurindo

Located on the same street as Tsurunoya, Chikurindo is a long-standing confectionery with eight generations of history. Its most popular offerings are the Tono specialties Akegarasu and Sanzan Yubeshi (三山ゆべし). Sanzan Yubeshi is a mochi-like sweet made with sugar, soy sauce, and walnuts. Both treats only include natural ingredients and effortlessly blend sweet and savory notes. The owner speaks excellent English and is happy to share her shop’s story. As a gift, she gives you Akegarasu and Sanzan Yubeshi.

Sun hobby

The next spot is a retro toy store founded in 1977 that is guaranteed to excite your inner child. Sun hobby is a small shop packed with plastic figurines, puzzles, Japanese candy, traditional Japanese dolls, boardgames and more. The present owner, who is the founder’s granddaughter, challenges you to a Rubik’s Cube showdown. The competition is fun, and regardless of the winner, you will receive a prize of snacks beloved by Japanese children.

Mayoiga no sato

Mayoiga no sato is one of the most endearing shops on this list and is a gathering place where local grandmothers create handmade crafts. Choose from decorations, keychains, baskets, and more. The elderly women’s contagious energy is bound to make you smile. For a souvenir, the women will let you choose from a collection of their products.

Tono Folktale Museum

Tono Folktale Museum displays information about folklorist Kunio Yanagita, his famous book The Legends of Tono, and the folktales themselves through visually and auditorially engaging exhibits. Located inside a renovated sake warehouse, the traditional architecture sets the scene—sending you back in time to the historical roots of the folktales. Although many of the displays are exclusively in Japanese, there are some English translations. There are even storytelling corners where you can listen to the folktales in the Tono dialect. Even if you don’t understand the language, it is still compelling to listen to the stories in their mother tongue.

In addition to the folktales, the museum also allows guests to try on mino, a type of traditional Japanese rainwear made out of straw. With the old-timey architecture as a backdrop, the rainwear makes for a fun and unique photo experience.

Yabusame experience and shrine walk at Tonogo Hachimangu Shrine

Yabusame is a Shinto ritual event that centers on horseback archery. Performed throughout Japan, Yabusame is held to honor the gods and pray for the safety of the local community. The Tono Nanbu Yabusame, which originated in 1335, is held at Tonogo Hachimangu Shrine and is an integral part of the Tono Festival—one of Tono’s largest events with over 60 traditional performing arts.

Although the event is only held in September, Tono Hachimangu Shrine offers Yabusame experiences year-round. The experience includes a short video and explanation of the Yabusame process, a demonstration from a Yabusame archer (without a horse), Yabusame training, and a tour of Tonogo Hachimangu Shrine with introductions of the 200-meter-long Yabusame course and proper shrine etiquette.

The training portion of this experience is definitely a highlight. Once you perfect your form under the watchful eye of your instructor, you will feel a rush of exhilaration as you let the arrow fly. The short training session provides perspective and appreciation for the revered art. After the heart-pounding activity, the proceeding shrine walk allows your mind and body to unwind. Cat lovers should not miss the small cat shrine at the shrine’s entrance.

If you are interested in the Yabusame Experience and Shrine Walk, please contact Tonogo Hachimangu Shrine via its inquiries page.

Doburoku-making experience

Originating about 2,300 years ago when rice cultivation began in Japan, Doburoku is a type of alcohol made from rice, rice malt, and water. The beverage has long been considered sacred, and people throughout Japan still use it as an offering to the gods for a good harvest. The cloudy white beverage is known for its rich blend of sweet and savory flavors and has pieces of rice in every sip. Tono is certified as a Doburoku Special Zone, meaning that it is allowed to produce and sell Doburoku. In fact, given the city’s long history of Doburoku-brewing, it was the first city in Japan to be certified as a Doburoku Special Zone.

At the hotel Takamuro Suikoen, you can join the brewing process of Tono Doburoku Kappa no Mai—a Tono-exclusive Doburoku blend. The experience is set in a small brewery that uses local rice and traditional methods to craft its products. It only produces about 360 liters of Doburoku a month, making its product somewhat of a rarity. The hands-on activity includes brewing, bottling, labeling two 180mL souvenir bottles, and sampling freshly brewed Doburoku.

Please note that the experience is only available during the production of Doburoku—roughly once a month. Send an inquiry to Takamuro Suikoen if you are interested.

In 2025, the workshop will be available on Mar 6, Apr 10, May 15, Jun 12, Jul 10, Aug 7, Sep 11, Oct 9, Nov 13, and Dec 11.

Michi-no-eki Tonokaze no Oka

Roadside Stations, or michi-no-eki, in Japan are more than just places of rest. They serve as introductions to an area’s local cuisine and culture. Michi-no-eki Tonokaze no Oka, located off of National Route 283, is no exception. Recognized as one of Japan’s top roadside stations, Michi-no-eki Tonokaze no Oka offers a wealth of Tono culture, with food options, souvenirs, and scenic views aplenty. The spacious dining hall has a variety of delicious eats, including udon, soba, ramen, and even Tono craft beer. The rustic wooden design and floor-to-ceiling windows make for a relaxing mealtime.

Past the windows, is perhaps the station’s most popular feature—its outdoor terrace. The outdoor space overlooks Sarugaishi River, plots of farmland, residences, forests, and mountains for an all-encompassing view of Tono’s rural charms in every season. There are even train tracks in the foreground, making for a memorable visual whenever the train passes. During summer, the station holds Genghis Khan (grilled lamb and vegetables) barbecues.

On the souvenir side of the station, there is no shortage of Tono memorabilia. Some examples include hop soda (since Tono is famous for its hop production), an array of kappa-inspired wares, and regional snacks and sweets.

Cuisine

O no hidume

Located in Tono’s downtown area, O no hidume is a restaurant that offers an unforgettable dining experience. With an interior akin to a modern farmhouse, O no hidume exclusively serves course meals inspired by Tono’s local and seasonal ingredients. The owner and chef was raised on a farm in Tono and takes a lot of pride in crafting dishes that showcase the area’s agricultural blessings. The menu changes approximately every two months to match the changing seasons.

The creative flavor combinations, cooking techniques, and plating is unparalleled. Some dishes are even served on Oigen-ware, which are famous ironware products produced in Iwate. During the luxurious meal, you may have the chance to try Tono- or Iwate-sourced venison, cod, tofu, mushrooms, potatoes, apples, and more. The chef’s passion for cooking is tangible, and you are guaranteed to leave with awe-inspired eyes and a content stomach.

Reservations are required, so please be sure to call the restaurant (080-1038-8639) in advance.

Accommodation

Takamuro Suikoen

Takamuro Suikoen is a Japanese-style hotel that preserves the past and looks to the future to create meaningful present moments. Across its nature-adorned complex, the hotel features a variety of traditional buildings, including a thatched-roof watermill and an L-shaped Nambu Magariya farmhouse, which combines the residence and horse stables into a singular building. Walking around the complex feels like a journey into the past.

Inside the hotel, you can enjoy rejuvenating bathing areas, refined Japanese cuisine, a small souvenir shop with regional goods, and spacious guest rooms. To create an eco-friendly lodging experience, the hotel uses self-generated solar and water power to heat its large public baths and sauna, both of which are separated by gender. A stay at Takamuro Suikoen provides the perfect balance of culture exploration, relaxation, and environmental sustainability.

Hanamaki City

Adjacent to Tono, Hanamaki is also known for its wealth of natural splendor, offering scenic snapshots of rural Japan. In fact, the city is famous for its hot springs, which have spawned a collection of long-running hot spring facilities in the region. The city is also the hometown of famous Japanese author, Kenji Miyazawa, whose fantastical stories have touched the hearts of Japanese children and adults alike.

Culture and attractions

Hayachine Kagura experience at Hayachine Shrine

Kagura is a ceremonial Shinto dance typically performed to honor the gods. The spellbinding performance includes extravagant costumes and rhythmic dancing in tune to taiko drums, flutes, and other traditional instruments. Hayachine Kagura is a type of kagura that originated in Osako Town, Hanamaki and was designated as a National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property in 1976.

Hayachine Kagura offers a kagura experience in which you can watch a 40-minute performance, try kagura yourself, and take a commemorative photo with the performers.

The performance is nothing short of mesmerizing. The purposeful and oftentimes repetitive movements aligned with the powerful music draw you in. The dance includes costume changes and props, such as a fan, katana, and rice. There is even a segment where one of the performers dresses as a lion deity. If you are lucky, the dancers will invite you on stage so the lion deity can “bite” your head and eat your negativity. The kagura dancers have been training and performing since they were children, so they are experts of the art.

After the performance, the dancers teach you part of the kagura dance. The steps are easy to follow, allowing you to comfortably fall in line with the dancers. It is a fun and special opportunity to learn about a treasured artform from the masters themselves.

Hanamaki Lantern Event

Add your wish to the night sky at the Hanamaki Lantern Event (はなまき：星めぐりの夜), held four to five times annually during winter at Namari Ski Center. The festivities are available to guests who are staying at accommodations in Hanamaki Onsenkyo Village, and you can reserve a lantern through your accommodation. Each accommodation provides a brief explanation of the event and distributes the lanterns before shuttling guests to the venue.

The wintry scenery creates a perfect backdrop for the magical event. Once 6pm hits, the facility’s lights darken, leaving only the flickering lanterns to illuminate the area. Then, after an exciting countdown, everyone simultaneously releases their lanterns. Emotional music swells as the shining beacons of dreams rise together. The soft, yellow lanterns against the black sky create a breathtaking sight. Once the wishes join the stars, the event ends with a lively fireworks display.

Miyazawa Kenji Dowa Mura (Fairytale Village)

Born in Hanamaki in 1896, Miyazawa Kenji is one of Japan’s most beloved novelists, poets, and children’s literature writers. During his lifetime, he wrote more than 100 children’s stories and 1,000 poems and essays. His fantastical tales are all set in the fictional realm of Ihatov, a utopia inspired by his home prefecture, Iwate. Everyone in Japan knows his name, and his most famous work is Night on the Galactic Railroad.

The Miyazawa Kenji Dowa Mura (Fairytale Village) is a naturally lush complex where you can experience Kenji’s world. The area’s entrance is a recreation of the Milky Way Station from the Night on the Galactic Railroad and symbolizes the boundary between reality and Kenji’s world.

One of the village’s main focal points is “Kenji’s School,” which has playful architecture that foreshadows the unique wonders within. Although small, the building’s visually compelling rooms beautifully reflect Kenji’s imaginative mind, incorporating topics such as space, the sky, and the Earth.

Outside, the Fairytale Village is home to numerous nature paths, as well as five log houses with educational displays about stones, birds, stars, animals, and plants. There are also two souvenir shops with cute forest- and Kenji-related products. Although the information is only in Japanese, the fantastical elements melded with nature will make you feel as though you are in a different world.

Cuisine

Sobe’s Cafe

Sobe’s Cafe is an all-vegan restaurant that utilizes homegrown brown rice and locally-sourced, organic ingredients to craft creatively-inspired dishes. The owner, Sayuri Takahashi, drew inspiration for her restaurant from her family’s 500-year-old rice field. To share her love of brown rice with others, she decided to open a cafe and found that vegan cuisine best complements the earthiness of brown rice.

The cafe’s emblem is a simple smiley face—a universal symbol that visitors from all over the world can understand. Inside, the cozy, wooden interior and chill music encapsulate the restaurant’s close ties to nature.

In addition to being vegan, the cafe’s meals are also Oriental vegan, Halal, and gluten free. The only exception is the hamburg dish, which is non-Halal and not gluten free. The restaurant has an extensive English menu filled with delicious beverages and dishes, including coffee, chai, taco rice, “chicken” nanban, apple and cheese hamburg, tempura “shrimp” curry, tofu tiramisu, and soy ice cream. There is even a lunch course with “unagi” and seasonal dishes. The flavors, presentation, and plating are ingenious.

Wanko Soba at Yabuya

Originating in Morioka and Hanamaki, wanko soba is an all-you-can-eat style soba (buckwheat noodle) dish. The presentation of this meal is what makes it unique. You receive one bowl that you hold in your hand, along with numerous side dishes for some flavor variety. Then, a server stands beside you with a tray of bowls containing small soba portions. Once you finish your portion, the server will add the next batch of soba to your bowl. The serving bowls stack up before you, acting as a record of your competitive consumption. The process continues until you can no longer eat, and you place a lid on your bowl, signifying your surrender. Generally, you receive a small certificate with the date and number of bowls you consumed.

A great place to try wanko soba in Hanamaki is at Yabuya. Founded in 1923, this restaurant started the tradition of stacking bowls for wanko soba and thus, offers an authentic wanko soba experience. While most of the hype around wanko soba is the competitive eating aspect, don’t forget to enjoy the soba itself. Yabuya crafts its soba with Iwate buckwheat flour and pairs it with a savory and delicate broth that has virtually remained unchanged since its founding.

If you are not interested in wanko soba, the restaurant also offers plenty of other soba dishes. A notable option is the Kenji set. Miyazawa Kenji used to frequent Yabuya, and the restaurant immortalized his order of tempura soba with a Mitsuya cider.

If you still have an appetite after your meal, stop by the Showa-retro Marukan Restaurant for its gravity-defying vanilla ice cream.

Accommodation

Fujisan Ryokan

With over 600 years of history, Fujisan Ryokan is regarded as one of Japan’s top hot spring resorts. The historical ambience, first-rate hospitality, unparalleled hot spring baths, luxurious rooms, and high-quality Japanese cuisine make for a blissful stay that you will repeatedly revisit in your mind when you need a moment’s peace. Kenji Miyazawa even mentioned the ryokan in his works!

The ryokan is most famous for its hot spring baths and initially opened as a treatment facility for ailing people. Today, the ryokan still fills its baths with 100% hot spring water and even uses the healing water for its showers. Arguably, its most historic bath is the Shirozaru-no-yu, which roughly translates to White Monkey Bath. This 1.25-meter-deep bath is designed for standing and is set in a high-ceilinged room that retains the atmosphere of the past.

The ryokan is also home to outdoor hot spring baths that are located on the side of the building and overlook the Toyosawa River. The revitalizing water, billowing steam, nature-adorned riverside views, and gentle melody of water will transport you to a place of genuine peace.

The modern guest rooms and elegant dinner, featuring Iwate beef, continue the ryokan’s trend of excellence, creating an all-encompassing lodging experience that masterfully captures Hanamaki’s hot spring legacy.

Visit Tono City and Hanamaki City in Iwate

With their captivating blend of cultural activities, attractions, locally-inspired cuisine, and extraordinary accommodations, Tono and Hanamaki are meaningful destinations where you can dive into lesser-seen sides of Japan. Both cities’ locals cannot wait to share their hometown passions with you.

Additional resources

Tono City’s official tourism homepage: tonojikan.jp/ml/
Hanamaki's overseas tourism homepage:

• English: visit-hanamaki.travel
• Simplified Chinese: cn.visit-hanamaki.travel/
• Traditional Chinese: tw.visit-hanamaki.travel/
• Thai: th.visit-hanamaki.travel/