Sumiyoshiya is a ryokan style hotel right in the center of Teradomari a short walk from the beach, the main draw of the town in summer. It’s a big concrete tower but the relatively plain exterior hides a tastefully decorated, comfortable hotel. The sea is just across the road and on the other side is a large temple complex on a hill.
The rooms are Japanese tatami mats with a large low table in the middle of the room. This is moved aside at night and the futons, stored in the cupboard, are laid out while you are at dinner. Being right on the Sea of Japan the seafood couldn’t be fresher and the hotel boasts a stunning spread for dinner. There are loads of dishes awaiting you as you come into your own private dining room and more follow. I counted 9 different kinds of fish even before the sushi arrived. The Japanese people I was with raved about the crab and were very impressed by the food in general. Breakfast was a similar affair (this time in a communal dining room) with lots of different dishes and plenty of fish - not my usual breakfast staple but tasty nonetheless.
The hotel has a couple of onsen - a large public bath and an upstairs outdoor bath that looks out onto the ocean. It’s a great way to clean up and refresh after a day on the beach.
The beach is the big draw and the hotel has a deal with one of the beach houses. If you haven’t packed your parasol these shady outdoor cafes are a must to escape the heat. They were originally built close to the road where the high tide point used to be but the water no longer comes in as much as it once did so they are now portacabins and decking out on the sand, though it does mean there is plenty of beach for the holidaymakers to enjoy.
Being close to the beach there is always the risk of a tsunami. Around Teradomari and inside the hotel there are stickers everywhere telling you how high above sea level you are, and if you read the safety instructions, head high is the recommended elevation to head for should you be unluckly enough to experience a tsunami. Sumiyoshiya is a great base for exploring Teradomari and offers a high level of Japanese hospitality.
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