Mori no Mado restaurant in Hiyoshi

If you’re traveling by car in the southern part of Ehime, you’ll be enchanted by the wooded mountains, broad meandering rivers, and the traditional farm houses clustered against the hillsides. But come lunchtime and the promptings of hunger, you may begin to wonder with a growing sense of urgency where on earth you’re going to eat!

Fortunately the roads are dotted with Michi no Eki or Road Stations, which loom up at intervals just as desperation begins to take hold. The Road Station on Route 320 is called Hiyoshi Yumesanchi, and it has a surprisingly good restaurant, Mori no Mado (Forest Window), which serves hearty, good value dishes with seasonal variations. Tall windows line one wall of the restaurant, affording views of the nearby mountains, hence the name. I often travel this road and I’m always glad to stop here to eat. On a cold, rainy Saturday in January, I ordered the curry and rice baked with a soft egg and a topping of cheese. It arrived quickly and made a warming, satisfying lunch. Other special winter offerings included pork cutlet with curry, a heavy rice broth with local chicken and egg, and rice topped with deep fried fish patties, an Ehime favorite. In the summer, there are specials that cater to the need for something cool and refreshing. The rivers of this area are known for their eels, and Mori no Mado offers some rather self-indulgent set meals featuring grilled eel. And despite the fact that Hiyoshi is a very isolated spot, Mori no Mado offers a full menu of standard fare such as rice-bowls with toppings and noodle dishes.

Hiyoshi Yumesanchi has its own bakery, and Mori no Mado is rather unusual in offering a breakfast set for 500 yen.

Besides food, the menu has a back section that also covers some of the local attractions. Unless they were brought to your attention in this way, you’d pass them right by unawares, which would be a shame because they’re good. The local history museum at Myojo ga Oka is well worth a visit after lunch.