Apr 23, 2018 - 1 min read

Kokuzo Shrine

Quaint shrine in Aso region

By Ekaterina Bespyatova

Community writer

This less-visited shrine sits in the woods inside the Aso caldera

The surrounding neighborhood is very quiet

There's a sign at the entrance telling the visitor about the Engishiki listing

The dim light under the trees creates a serene and peaceful atmosphere

The main building itself is in a sunny spot; you can see the sparks of early fall colors in the tree canopy

Simple buildings are characteristic of Shinto shrines

Now, with Aso shrine in ruins and under repair, this is probably the most interesting shrine that remains standing in Aso

This is the preserved trunk of the huge Teno O-sugi, an ancient cryptomeria tree

It must have been even more impressive when it was alive

Having spent some time in peaceful contemplation, I turn back and follow the same path to my car

Kokuzo Shrine is included in the Engishiki, a book written back in the Heian period over a thousand years ago. This makes it one of the oldest shrines in the Aso region. With its quiet atmosphere and peaceful surroundings, it stands in stark contrast to the vibrant and bustling Aso Shrine only 6 km away. Far fewer people venture to Kokuzo Shrine. At the time of my visit, I encountered only a couple of other travelers.

One of the points of interest here is the remains of the great sugi of Teno: a huge polished trunk of a famous old growth cryptomeria tree that died in 1991 during a typhoon. This national monument was said to be 2000 years old.

The ancient tree trunk is surely impressive; but I enjoyed just being there, walking under the canopy of trees that are very much alive. The shrine buildings themselves are simple and not particularly old, but you can feel the age of this place. It’s in the air.

The shrine is located just off Route 213 in Teno. There are signs once you get close.