Opened in November 2017, Ryujinmaru specialises in all things warayaki. Straw-grilling is a traditional cooking technique originating from the Tosa region of Kochi prefecture and one of its star dishes, Katsuo no Tataki (seared bonito), is a firm favourite on the menu here.
This is immediately obvious before stepping inside this izakaya-style establishment, with the shop-front periodically lit up by the blaze of the furnace applying the final straw-grilled touches to customers' orders. The bonito, or skipjack tuna, here is delivered fresh direct from Kochi, and the light straw-grilled searing of the outside of the fish complements the bonito's flavour so well it's a natural choice.
The menu promises more straw-grilled delights beyond katsuo though, like Kuroge wagyu beef as well as more standard seafood offerings like assorted fresh sashimi and even a Bagna càuda.
Kochi-inspired offerings continue with buri-daikon, maguro-kama and kamameshi-style dishes, including the chance to try katsuo ochazuke-style, whereby the rice is served with a warm dashi soup and topped with succulent cuts of bonito.
A fully-stocked menu of sakes, including many local to Kochi, round out the menu with draft Suntory Premium Malts beer available too.
Ryujinmaru is a 2-minute walk from Akasaka station, with Exit 1 closest.