We follow an elderly farmer, he must be pushing 80, into the forest, trying to match his surprisingly brisk pace. As we venture deeper, the winter air bites at our faces, and the forest seems eerily quiet, almost empty. But he is eager to show us something. Suddenly, he stops and turns around, a proud smile on his face. Behind him, a neat stack of dead trees comes into view. “These,” he announces, pointing enthusiastically, “are my shiitake mushrooms; the best you will ever taste.” Stepping closer, we notice mushrooms of all sizes sprouting from the logs. As we admire them, he begins explaining the art of shiitake farming; from inoculating the logs to harvesting and drying the mushrooms, a process deeply rooted in tradition. This is just one example of the sustainable tourism initiatives on Tsushima Island, a remote gem off the coast of Fukuoka. The island faces the challenges of depopulation and an aging society, yet its people are determined to keep their traditions alive. Through rural revitalization projects and sustainable tourism, they hope to attract both visitors and new residents who appreciate the island’s beauty and heritage. If you want to experience the heart of rural Japan; the real traditional Japan, Tsushima Island is the place to go.
The Japanses Tsushima Island, located between Kyushu and Korea in the ‘Korea strait’, may seem remote, but it’s surprisingly accessible. A quick 30-minute flight from Fukuoka Airport brings you to this historically rich and ecologically diverse destination. This blog will offer insights into activities, accommodations, and must-see spots on the island. Tsushima is known as the birthplace of paddy farming in Japan, with a local legend telling of a crane dropping a rice stalk, leading to the development of rice paddies—an agricultural practice that dates back over 2,000 years. Today, however, the island faces challenges such as depopulation and an aging society, along with the socio-economic and environmental issues that come with them. As part of a research project, I visited Tsushima to study rural revitalization initiatives aimed at enhancing ecosystem services and biodiversity. It was inspiring to see the dedication of local communities working to sustain their environment and economy. Many of these initiatives focus on raising awareness through environmental education programs, creating a deeper connection between people and nature. A shared philosophy runs through these projects: humans are an integral part of the ecosystem. By collaborating, Tsushima’s residents are finding sustainable ways to counteract depopulation while preserving the island’s unique culture and natural beauty. With its rich biodiversity and strong community-driven conservation efforts, Tsushima Island has the potential to become a model destination for sustainable tourism.
Our journey began in Shitaru village, where the population has plummeted from 500 to just 53 in recent years. It was a strange sight to see so many abandoned houses scattered across the island. Over the past few decades, many residents have left in search of opportunities in urban areas. As younger generations leave, traditional cultural knowledge is lost, and ecosystem services are diminished. Many rice fields have been abandoned, and as rainwater now flows directly into the river, the land has become drier. Without wetland conditions, natural succession is turning former rice paddies into forests. These environmental changes have had a profound impact on local wildlife—particularly the endangered Tsushima leopard cat. Once numbering around 300, only about 100 of these mountain cats remain today, as they relied on the wetland habitats created by rice farming.
One of the key organizations leading revitalization efforts is the Satoyama Keieijuku Organization, which hosts activities to restore the region’s natural and human resources. Their approach focuses on encouraging a shift back to a more locally dependent lifestyle while simultaneously promoting sustainable tourism. One of the most popular ecotourism experiences is the wildcat night tour. Other options are educational tours for companies and students that blend environmental education with cultural experiences. Despite depopulation, the island’s culture remains vibrant. One particularly successful initiative has been the promotion of farming homestays, which allow visitors to connect with local life and gain hands-on experience in traditional farming practices. Currently, 36 families host homestays, providing guests with an authentic glimpse into daily island life. These stays not only offer meaningful cultural exchanges but also contribute to revitalizing the area by generating income and preserving local traditions.
Deer are making life difficult for Tsushima’s shiitake farmers. These hungry grazers devour young oak trees, the very foundation of traditional mushroom cultivation. Growing shiitake is no easy task; it takes two years for the first mushrooms to appear after inoculating oak logs with spores, and each log can produce mushrooms for up to three years. But without new oak trees, the future of this craft is at risk. To make matters worse, government reforestation efforts have focused on planting pine trees, which are useless for shiitake farming. As a result, the island is running out of the oaks that once made it a hub for premium shiitake production. Yet, despite the odds, a handful of dedicated farmers are keeping this tradition alive. Passionate about their work, they continue to cultivate shiitake using age-old techniques, protecting a piece of Tsushima’s cultural heritage. And if you visit, they’ll gladly welcome you to their farms, sharing their knowledge, and maybe even a taste of the freshest shiitake you’ll ever have!
CAPPA, a marine debris organization, highlights Tsushima’s unique position at the heart of Asia, serving as a vital trade point between various Asian countries. They offer exciting sea kayaking experiences, allowing visitors to navigate between the island’s beautiful shores and surrounding islands. One of the challenges Tsushima faces is its location in the path of strong currents, which bring marine debris from the seas of Korea and China, often depositing it along the island's coastline. CAPPA is actively addressing this issue through environmental education and by collecting and removing the largest pieces of debris. Through these initiatives, CAPPA is not only raising awareness about the impact of marine pollution but also working alongside other organizations to find sustainable solutions. By recycling and responsibly disposing of the collected waste, they are playing a key role in protecting Tsushima’s beautiful environment for future generation
If you're looking to explore Tsushima’s natural beauty and learn about its conservation efforts, there are several eco-tour options on the island that offer immersive experiences:
- Sea kayaking in Aso Bay: Paddle through the hundreds of islands in Aso Bay while discovering the challenges posed by coastal waste. It’s a unique way to enjoy the stunning landscape while learning about environmental issues. For more information, visit Tsushima Cappa or Tsushima Eco.
- Ecological tours and night hikes: Tsushima is home to the endangered Tsushima leopard cat, and there are several conservation projects dedicated to protecting this extraordinary species. Join a night hike and get the chance to spot these elusive wild cats while learning about the efforts to safeguard them. You can find more details here: Discover Nagasaki.
- Nohaku program - Homestays and local experiences: For a truly authentic experience, stay with local farmers, fishermen, and forestry families through the Nohaku program. This homestay/farmstay initiative offers a chance to learn about traditional resource use on the island. We were fortunate enough to stay in beautiful, old Japanese homestays, where we shared meals made from local ingredients with our hosts. Staying with the local communities was an unforgettable experience, and I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to immerse themselves in local life. Find out more here: Nohaku Program.
- Shiitake mushroom farms: Tsushima’s shiitake farmers are keeping a traditional craft alive, and you can visit farms around the island to observe the fascinating process of mushroom cultivation through one of the above-mentioned organisation or as part of the Nohaku program. It’s a great way to connect with the island’s agricultural heritage.
If needed, websites can be easily translated using online translation tools, and most organizations offer English-speaking guides to assist visitors.
Tsushima island also offers some incredible hiking opportunities for those looking to explore its rugged beauty and rich history. Besides the organized eco-tours, you can hike on several remarkable trails that lead you through diverse landscapes—from lush forests to scenic mountain vistas, with glimpses of the island’s cultural heritage. Here are a few standout hiking options:
- Mt. Ariake: This trail offers a stunning climb to the top of one of Tsushima’s highest peaks. The path takes you through dense forests and rewarding viewpoints, where you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding islands and the sea. It’s easy accessible from the village of Izuhara, the biggest village on the island, making it a must-do for any hiking enthusiast. For more details and directions, you can check out the trail on Google Maps here.
- Sentawara Makiyama: This hike on the northern part of the island will lead you to the peaceful and serene surroundings of Sentawara Makiyama (千俵蒔山展望台). The trail weaves through dense vegetation, offering a perfect escape into nature. Along the way, you may encounter local wildlife, and the summit provides sweeping views over the island’s coastline. It's a perfect spot for those looking to experience the quieter, more secluded side of Tsushima. Find this beautiful trail on Google Maps here.
- Kaneda Fortress Ruins: For history lovers, the hike to the Kaneda Fortress Ruins offers a fascinating combination of natural beauty and historical intrigue. The ruins of this fortress provide a glimpse into Tsushima’s strategic importance and you can learn about military history at the ruins of a battery built in the Meiji period. The trail leading up to the site is scenic, and as you explore the remnants of the fortress you can enjoy great views over the ocean and islands from the mountaintop. You can find more information about this trail on Google Maps here.
Whether you're seeking tranquillity, panoramic vistas, or a deeper connection to the island's rich history. Tsushima’s hiking paths are a perfect way to discover the island’s natural beauty and cultural significance firsthand.
Practical information:
- Getting Around: While there are some bus services on the island, they are infrequent and may not reach all attractions. Renting a car is the most convenient way to explore Tsushima. Rental cars are available near Tsushima Airport, making it easy to start your journey upon arrival. Be sure to bring your international driving permit if required.
- Supermarkets & Convenience Stores: Most larger villages have supermarkets where you can stock up on essentials. Additionally, convenience stores such as FamilyMart and Lawson can be found in some areas, offering snacks, drinks, and basic necessities.
- ATMs & Payments: While some places accept credit cards, many smaller businesses prefer cash. ATMs can be found in post offices, banks, and some convenience stores.
- Accommodation: Tsushima offers a variety of accommodation options, including hotels, guesthouses, and traditional homestays (Nohaku). Homestays provide a great opportunity to experience local life and cuisine.
- Connectivity: Free Wi-Fi is available at some public spots, but coverage may be limited in rural areas. Consider getting a portable Wi-Fi device or a Japanese SIM card for better connectivity.
- Language: While English is not widely spoken, most eco-tour organizations have English-speaking guides. Translation apps can also help when navigating local service
By Viola van Onselen, researcher at Nagasaki University
