We had just run across a frozen lake in the middle of a snowstorm, only to now find ourselves comfortably nestled in our warm car, winding through the mountains towards Lake Kussharo. As I gazed out the window, my heart suddenly leaped; perched in a tree right in front of us was a Steller’s sea eagle, staring down with piercing eyes! What a majestic, colossal bird; one of Hokkaido’s most sought-after wildlife sightings. But it has some stiff competition from its much tinier (and definitley cuter) counterpart: the long-tailed tit, or shima-enaga. This fluffy little snowball of a bird has taken over Hokkaido’s souvenir shops, appearing on everything from keychains to coffee mugs. And while these two birds steal much of the spotlight, Hokkaido is home to an incredible array of wildlife, from bears to bushy-tailed foxes, set against a backdrop of endless outdoor adventure.
We embarked on a five-day journey across Japan’s northernmost island, a winter wonderland that—surprisingly—is not even the snowiest place in Japan but still plunges to bone-chilling temperatures of -20°C (especially in January and February). While most winter tourists flock to the famous Sapporo Snow Festival, there is so much more to see and experience. To draw visitors beyond the usual hotspots, Hokkaido has embraced eco-tourism, with fantastic initiatives that support both conservation and local wildlife. We’re excited to share our five-day itinerary, featuring breathtaking volcanic landscapes, frozen lake adventure, existing hikes, the graceful red-crowned cranes and other amazing wildlife and many tips for local food and tour options.
Day 0: Airport- Otofuke
We arrived in the late afternoon at Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport (CTS) and picked up our rental car from J-Net, which is our go-to rental company, always impressively efficient. To our surprise, the highways were completely snow-free, defying our expectations of winter driving in Hokkaido. The drive to Otofuke was smooth and didn’t take any longer than what Google Maps predicted. The only challenge? The narrow lanes, especially with our oversized badass SUV (which was the only vehicle of choice when we booked this trip pretty last minute).
We can’t deny that it was pretty cold, still it didn’t feel too bad, although the sky was crystal clear as night fell. Luckily, soon we were settling into our warm hotel room in Otofuke, where we would stay overnight. And, as is the norm in this region, our hotel had an onsen (hot spring), where you can warm up after all the activities in the cold winter air.
Day 1: Otofuke -Mt. Meakan- Lake Akan
This action-packed day began at 5:30 AM. As we opened the curtains, any lingering sleepiness vanished—excitement took over as we took in the snowy landscape around us. We had an early start to drive to the trailhead of Mt. Meakan, an active volcano that can be climbed year-round (though snowshoes or crampons are a must in winter). The hike started in a peaceful forest filled with bird sounds, but as we ascended, the landscape changed—bare volcanic slopes lay beneath a thick layer of snow. Despite a forecast promising clear skies, we only caught brief glimpses of sunshine. Nearing the summit, we battled strong winds, ice formations (including on our own hair), and near-zero visibility. We knew we were close to the crater rim when we heard the eerie sounds of the active volcano below. At 1,499 meters, we finally reached the summit after 2.5 hours of climbing—though the knee-deep snow made us regret not renting snowshoes. In some sections, the snow was so deep we were actually walking above buried treetops. Back at the car, we debated extending the hike around the nearby trails towards lake Onneto, but our rumbling stomachs made the decision for us; lunch was our next stop.
We made our way to Lake Akan, home to the charming Ainu Kotan village, a cultural hub of Hokkaido’s indigenous Ainu people. The village is lined with shops selling traditional handicrafts, souvenirs, and local delicacies. For lunch, we stopped at Marukibune Café, a cozy spot with a crackling fireplace and a menu featuring Ainu cuisine, including venison dishes. We tried Yuk Kam Ohaw, a rich venison soup with local vegetables, and out of curiosity, we also sampled pocche-imo—frozen fermented potatoes. Let’s just say it’s… an acquired taste!
As the weather began to clear, we decided to check out the activities on frozen Lake Akan. The area offers plenty of winter adventures, from snowshoe hiking to adventuring on walking skis. You can trek to the Bokke mud volcanoes—where steam seeps through the icy ground—and spot deer along the way, or simply explore the vast frozen lake. The lakeside also features ice skating and ice fishing, though unfortunately, the rink was closed, and the snow wasn’t deep enough for walking skis (which can be rented at the Akankohan Eco Museum Center). So, we opted to explore on foot and made our way to the bubbling Bokke mud volcanoes—a fascinating natural sight in this winter wonderland through a forest filled with busy woodpeckers and deer.
Day 2: Lake Akan – lake Kussharo – Mt. Io - Shari
This morning, we had a decent challenge on our minds: an ice run on lake Akan. Our original plan was to run a half marathon on the frozen surface, inspired by an event we had hoped to join but couldn’t due to scheduling conflicts. Still, we wanted to experience what it felt like to run on a snow-covered frozen lake- while freezing, of course. However, conditions were far from ideal. Overnight, 30 cm of fresh snow had fallen, and it was still coming down heavily in the morning. The run felt more like trudging through soft sand rather than running over a packed icy surface. Determined, we followed the lake’s outline and discovered some beautiful ice formations along the way. In the end, we still managed to cover 16 km, pushing through the elements and finishing utterly exhausted - a hot shower never felt better.
Refreshed, we continued our journey towards Lake Kussharo, driving through a relentless snowstorm. Along the way, we spotted a Steller’s sea eagle perched in the trees; a massive, majestic sight. At the lakeshore, wild swans floated in the icy waters near the steaming hot springs, creating an almost mystical atmosphere. Further along the route, we arrived at the iconic Mount Iō, a surreal volcanic landscape that looked like something from another planet. Huge sulfur-yellow fumaroles spewed steam into the air, giving the place an otherworldly feel.
As we approached the coastline near Shari, our final destination of the day, we were treated to even more incredible wildlife encounters, an Ezo red fox with its thick, fluffy tail, standing out against the snowy shoreline at the beach of Sakyu Park.
Day 3: Shari- Shiretoko National Park - Mashu
Today, we joined a wildlife snowshoe tour in Shiretoko National Park, heading to Furepe Falls. It took a moment to get used to walking with snowshoes, but soon it became a fun challenge; especially finding the deepest snow to test them out! The tour was organized by Picchio Wildlife Research Center, which offers eco-tours that support conservation efforts. Shiretoko is known for its brown bear population, and according to our guide, not all of them are hibernating yet! The research center actively promotes coexistence between people and wildlife, particularly bears.
Along the way, we spotted fascinating animal tracks in the snow, left by foxes, raccoon dogs, and deer. The tour was both fun and educational, and when we reached the cliffside with the frozen waterfall, our guide pointed out a herd of deer grazing on a steep slope. Just as we were admiring them, someone noticed several Steller’s eagles soaring above us, making it a true wildlife-filled hike. By this time of year (late January), drift ice from Russia usually reaches the Shiretoko coast, offering unique opportunities to walk on the ice and observe wildlife. However, this year, it's expected to arrive in mid-February—something to keep in mind if you plan to visit and like to experience these kind of tours. The village near the entrance of Shiretoko National Park is known for its seafood restaurants, but in winter, most had their shutters down, leaving us on the hunt for an open spot. Fortunately, the nearby town of Shari had more options for a satisfying lunch.
In the afternoon, we made our way to the Ikushina Genseikaen Primeval Flower Garden. No flowers in sight this time of year, but the snow-covered beach and dark, dramatic winter skies created a stunning contrast. Every now and then, an eagle soared past while we were examining the ice sand (like a layer of crystals underneath the sand), a fascinating phenomena. As the cold began to creep into our bones, we made our way to the hot spring village of Mashu. Steam curled up from vents in the snow-covered streets, giving the whole place a dreamlike, mystical feel. There’s nothing quite like warming up at a cozy izakaya after a day in the freezing outdoors, and でんでん did not disappoint; delicious food, a welcoming atmosphere, and the perfect end to a winter’s day.
Dag 4: Mashu – Crane Bird Observations – Ice beach - Otofuke
In the morning, we visited a well-known spot to observe red-crowned cranes as they spent their night and early morning in the river at Otowa Bridge, before heading to nearby farmlands in search of food. It’s a beautiful location, though the cranes are a bit far away, so a zoom lens or binoculars definitely come in handy. Around 8.30, we moved to one of the farmland feeding sites (they get fed at 9:00 and 11:00), local farmers scatter corn kernels to support the cranes, whose natural food sources have declined due to land-use changes. Thanks to these efforts, the crane population is steadily increasing. Here, you can get remarkably close as the birds gather for their regular feedings. Watching them, tall and elegant, with their long legs and feathery tails swaying, it almost felt like witnessing a ballet performance in the snow. The most popular spots to see them are: Tsurumidai (Crane Observatory) and Tsurui-Itō Tanchō crane Sanctuary.
In the afternoon, we stopped for lunch in Kushiro, enjoying a bowl of rich curry ramen at a cozy local ramen bar. Afterward, we checked out a little-known ice beach at Kushiro, a hidden gem for spotting the so-called ‘jewellery ice’. The shore was covered in glistening ice fragments carried down from the nearby river, sparkling beautifully in the sunlight. From there, we took the scenic coastal road toward Toyokoro Ice Beach -the more famous jewellery ice spot. But to our surprise, only a few small pieces of ice were scattered along the shore. Guess its a hit or miss, we were glad that we stopped at the lesser know spot first. With that, we made our way to Obihiro, wrapping up the day with a visit to the ice skating rink at Meiji Hokkaido Tokachi Oval.
Day 5: Otofuke – Lake Shikotsu - Airport
We drove a while this morning to get close to the airport for our afternoon flight, but not before we visited lake Shikotsu, to our surprise completely unfrozen, but framed by stunning snow-covered mountains. The Lake Shikotsu Visitor Center offers detailed insights into local wildlife, with impressive exhibits, photos, and videos about the lake’s ecosystem. It’s also a great spot to take in the lake view, especially at sunset. From February, an ice village adds to the winter charm.
The area has plenty of scenic hiking options, including trails to frozen waterfalls and bird-rich forests. We chose to explore the "bird forest" in search of the elusive long-tailed tit. Though we only heard its call, we didn’t spot the little snowball. Walking through the forest itself was a nice experience, alive with bird activity and offering breathtaking views over the lake and mountains.
Unfortunately, it was time for us to leave this winter wonderland as we returned the car at the airport. It is an amazing and adventurous place, and we already know we'll be back for more!
Car Rental & Road Info:
- Car Rental: There are plenty of rental options around Sapporo Airport, but we usually go with J-net. It’s fast, affordable, and reliable.
- Road Conditions: Check current road conditions at https://www.jartic.or.jp/.
Tips:
- If you have extra time, consider heading further south—there are even more stunning volcanoes or ski areas to explore, such as Noboribetsu Jigokudani Valley or Rusutsu Ski Resort.
- While we visited at the end of January, we recommend traveling in February or March when more winter activities are available.
- It can get extremely cold, so prepare accordingly! We were lucky with mild weather, but it’s best to be ready for temperatures below -20.
