There's no bad time to be in Kurokawa Onsen but autumn is a particularly attractive season to spend a few days in this tiny hot springs village just north of Mt Aso. Early to mid-November brings out a blaze of maple leaves, both on the town streets and around the outdoor baths (rotemburo) of the many ryokan (traditional inns). There is a definitely a winter chill in the air by this time of year, but what better way to warm yourself than with a dip in the hot springs? Weekends in Kurokawa can get fairly crowded, so come on a weekday and you'll find the place pleasantly quiet.
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