Tsunoshima

Just off the northern Yamaguchi coast in the Sea of Japan lies Tsunoshima, a small but attractive island. Easily accessible now due to the Tsunoshima Bridge, the island’s sculpted landscapes, parks, quaint fishing villages, beaches, campground, and lighthouse make for an enjoyable weekend getaway. The rural retreat, part of Kita-Nagato Kaigan Quasi-National Park, has a population of about a thousand and covers 4.1 square kilometers (1.6 sq mi). Tsuno means “horn” in Japanese, and with some imagination you might see horns in the island’s shape as viewed from above.

At the entrance to the mile-long, toll-free access bridge, stop for a moment at Sesaki Akari Park, which has a small parking lot on the mainland side with restrooms and a nice view, head over the water past tiny Hato Island to Tsunoshima. Continue on the main road for a few minutes and you’ll come across Shiokaze no Sato, a large parking lot serving a stretch of beach and a visitor’s area with orientation information, food and restrooms. Cobalt Blue Beach has shower facilities, swimming, and surfing. Bike rentals are available here from the adjacent Tsunoshima Cycle Port.

From the parking lot it’s a jaunt to the southwest to find a quiet fishing village and marina. There aren’t really any “attractions” here, but it’s worth a drive, walk, or a bicycle ride through the narrow streets and among the houses, fishing vessels, and docks. There is also a second beach on this south side of the island, just opposite Cobalt Blue Beach.

Nearby is one of the island’s main draws, the lighthouse, illuminated in 1876 by Richard Henry Brunton, the “Father of Japanese lighthouses.” The vicinity also has some restaurants, a small grassy area called Yumesakinami Park, and Yumegasaki Cape with its rocky beach and nice views.

Just east of the lighthouse, and on the opposite coast of the island from the fishing village, you’ll find the largest beach and Tsunoshima Ohama Campground. This sandy beach is fairly white with clear water and a stunning seascape. There are also some interesting rock formations along the coastline that are worth walking out to visit. Next to the campground is a building that appears to be a pretty little church, but is actually an empty leftover from the set of Miracle in Four Days, a 2005 film. You can see why they filmed here, as the views are fantastic. Near the “church” is also a small nature center as well as a peaceful graveyard hidden behind the tall grasses.

On the other end of the island, past some residential areas and farms, all the way at one of the “horns” is Makizaki Wind Park. Aptly named, the landscape is rocky coast with windswept scrub brush and grasses. There are some brilliant plants here and seasonal wildflowers. The waves are also a show in and of themselves, with whitecaps dancing toward the shore. The west side of this cape is a fine place to sit on the rocks and watch the sun set.

Other than a large resort near the bridge on the mainland and the camping area, accommodations are slim. There are also no restaurants outside of the lighthouse area or Shiokaze no Sato (and none are open late) and no convenience stores, so you might want to pack a picnic lunch or dinner.

角島大橋—tsunoshima oohashi—Tsunoshima Bridge しおかぜの里角島—shiokaze no sato tsunoshima—Shiokaze no Sato 角島灯台公園—tsunoshima toudai kouen—Tsunoshima Lighthouse Park 角島大浜海水浴場･キャンプ場—tsunoshima oohama kaisuiyokujou, kyanpujou—Tsunoshima Ohama Beach and Campground 「四日間の奇蹟」—yokkakan no kiseki—Miracle in Four Days 牧崎風の公園—makizaki kaze no kouen—Makizaki Wind Park