Photo: Justin W. Dart

Hazama Sake Brewery

390-years of brewing sake on the Nakasendo

By Justin Dart    - 4 min read

Most Japanese towns have a sake brewery and each sake produced tastes slightly different from the next. Some sake is mass produced while some could be called “local brew”. Along the Nakasendo in Nakatsugawa-juku there are a handful of sake breweries all producing their own unique brews. The first place you’ll come across just inside Nakatsugawa-juku, a hodgepodge of 1960s concrete and Edo period Udatsu houses, is a beautiful old building which is home to Hazama Brewery and the Shuyukan.

The exterior is a low two-floor udatsu building with a large sign saying “Ena San”; their main brand named for the mountain that supplies the water for their sake. Like most sake breweries in Japan, there is a large sugidama - a ball made of pine needles - signifying that a new brew is ready for sale. At first I wasn’t sure if it was a store, a museum or a brewery but since I was feeling curious, in I went.

Just inside the genkan (foyer) were several kinds of sake all labeled with the same address. Some were in dark green bottles with more traditional looking labels others were in clear bottles with more modern labels.

“Irashaimase!” said a middle aged woman who was managing the store for the day. I asked if the museum was open and she waved me in. When you have been in Japan a long time, it becomes second nature to remove your shoes when you enter a building and if you don’t have to take your shoes off, it actually feels odd. She watched as I shuffled my shoes off by stepping on the heels and slid into the slippers.

“Is this a sake store and museum?” I queried as I walked along the dark wooden floor toward some large wooden barrels used for making sake.

“Yes, and a brewery.” she explained. “These are barrels we used for making sake...and still use pretty much the same kinds today.”

I walked over to a table where a bottle of sake with the character “Shun” was sitting with a sign stating it was available for order. This is a sake made slightly different each season and must be ordered. Behind this display I could look out on a small wabi sabi-like garden. The woman came over and pointed to a building about 60 meters away. “That tall building is where the rice is cleaned and prepared. The building in front of that is where the sake is made. We have been making sake for 390 years.” As I contemplated that last statement, she walked away and came back with two pieces of paper explaining in English how sake is made and the different kinds of sake which was very helpful. Sake is made with a diastatic enzime or Koji which helps create sugar. Yeast is then added to help create sake. From what the lady and documents told me, wine has basically four or five steps while sake has about eleven.

The center of the main room, where people can taste test the different sake, has high vaulted ceilings and walls of blackened wood and plaster. In one area there is a small water feature flowing with water from Mt. Ena; the heart of Hazama sake.

I was tempted to try some sake but because I was driving, I resisted. Thanking the lady for the tour and introduction to one of Nakatsugawa’s oldest businesses, I returned to the genkan to go on my way like a traveler of old.

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Justin Dart

Justin Dart @justin.dart

I am a country boy transplanted from Wisconsin in the USA to central Gifu Prefecture.The main focus of my life in Japan has been to introduce people to the world and the world to local communities and culture through international exchanges and educational programs. My hope is that people will hang a right at Nagoya, get off the beaten path and explore Gifu...what I call The Jewel of Discoveries.アメリカの田舎で育った男、岐阜県の田舎に引っ越しました。ジャスティン・ダートです。僕の日本での生活は「世界を紹介し、世界の地域における文化と生活を、国際交流や教育プログラムを通して紹介する」という目標です。観光客が名古屋で右を曲がって、岐阜県の旅を試してみたいという希望を持っています。岐阜県:発見の宝。多年前,我从美国的乡村搬到日本岐阜県的中部。現在我最大的志向是向本地人介绍世界各地的文化及把当地文化介绍给世界各地的人。通过国际交流和教育方案,我希望會有更多的人开始去探索岐阜県的美丽与文化。

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JapanTravel Guest
JapanTravel Guest 9 years ago
I actually went back a few days later and taste tested. She gave me 5 different sakes to try. They get tourists from Europe but few from North America.
Wouter Thielen 9 years ago
Thanks Barry! Hope I can find it at Narita airport tomorrow, so I have got something to read on my holidays :)
Barry Louie 9 years ago
Wouter, pick up Philip Harper's book, "The Insider's Guide to Sake". Choose Junmai, Ginjo or Daiginjo and sip it cold. Enjoy the change in viscosity and nose as it warms slightly. The rice is polished to 50% or more and generally has a more "fruity" flavor than those which aren't labeled Junmai. When sake is heated, it destroys the fine flavors and bouquet.
Wouter Thielen 9 years ago
I am no sake expert, so when I look at the sake menu in restaurants, I am always puzzled about what to choose. Do you have any advice on how to select good sake?
JapanTravel Guest
JapanTravel Guest 9 years ago
These old sake brewing places are just a fabulous piece of history and artisan-ship. They exist in all "remote" parts of Japan and exploring them is great fun. The trick is to bring a friend who doesn't drink, then do some tastings if you can. Not all places allow it, but I find that those dealing with a lot of tourists are happy to bring out some tasting cups.