Gokanosho may well be one of Kyushu's best-kept secrets. This mountainous area - once a hideaway for the hunted Heike clan after the Battle of Dan-no-ura in 1185 - is reached only via extremely narrow and winding roads. It's worth braving the drive in the autumn, however, when Gokanosho's mountains become saturated with reds, oranges, and yellows. For two weekends in early November, a system of one-way roads is maintained to ease congestion in the mountain passes.
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