If a full body hot spring bath isn't your thing, consider the next best option—baths just for your feet.
Just two and a half hours north of Tokyo is a basin of a city named Kaminoyama, located in Yamagata Prefecture. A renowned spa town, Kaminoyama has some of the most impressive and accessible traditional Japanese inns. There, you can try local Yamagata foods, attend craft workshops, and bathe in a natural hot spring after a worthwhile day.
Japan’s hot spring culture—or the idea of a full body bath among strangers—can be intimidating. Kaminoyama offers a unique opportunity to experience the relaxing hot spring warmth without needing to expose.
Conveniently located foot baths that use the local hot spring source water are available for free throughout the city. Each foot bath is open from 6 am to 10 pm. Along a designated path that follows these ashiyu (foot baths), you will also come across plenty of local shops, delicious restaurants and cafes, and serene countryside views.
I went out in search of this promising warmth in the early morning of a summer day. The journey began at Kaminoyama-Onsen Station with a towel and iced tea. Just a five minute walk past the glistening Mae River, the first checkpoint came into view.
Maekawa Foot Bath
The two tier bath stood out to me upon first glance. The top for the spouting lion, and the bottom a reservoir for the feet. Water gently trickled into the reservoir, which added to the calm atmosphere.
To my surprise, it was shocking how hot the water was at first, but with a slow and steady effort, it didn't take long to feel the relaxing magic. A constant heat, I felt the immediate appeal to this foot bath. An even further surprise was a displayed link to the city’s free Wi-Fi access. And it worked!
A nearby sign recommended only ten to fifteen minutes for the bath. When the minutes were up, I used my towel to dry my feet and already felt a noticeable difference in my body. There was also the physical impression of pink, flushed skin all the way up to my calves.
I embraced it proudly as I continued on the road and walked eight minutes to Shinyu Street, the downtown area. There were mom and pop restaurants all along the street, inviting me with their local smells. But with a determined gaze, I reached the center of the downtown and found my next shaded pitstop.
Shinyu Foot Bath
Located on the corner of a busy street, cars roamed by as I entered the foot bath. Similar to the previous one, the hot spring water was inviting enough for ten minutes. Had I stayed a minute longer, the flushed skin up to my calves would probably have become permanent. To pass the time, I read some tanka poetry written by local students, and tried deciphering the historical development of Kaminoyama on a picture scroll.
The cicadas still sang as I pat my skin dry and continued down the path. Seven minutes up the hill, past some traditional samurai homes (walk slow enough to be invited in for tea like I was), and around the corner was an alley with a foot bath tucked inside.
Yumachi Foot Bath
Before testing the water, I noticed there was a water basin just for my hands. Beside it, three stone cranes rest. According to the information display, this place was the origin of Kaminoyama. A traveling monk saw a crane in a swamp dipping its shins in the hot spring water. It then flew away with healed wounds.
The bath itself was a simple vessel with the hot spring water pouring directly from the valve. This should have been a warning that I did not consider. Excited to experience the cranes’ same healing water, I dipped my toes in and instantly regretted it. Without any structure for the water to stream out, the hot spring remained at a constant burning temperature. As a result, the water was absolutely unbearable–so much so that I could barely get my ankles in.
I was envious of the cranes, but the serenity of the atmosphere certainly won me over. With the nearby shrine, the cicadas singing, the trees swaying, it was the most peaceful standstill moment. Yumachi Foot Bath’s warmth was felt on another level that couldn’t have been beat.
Finally, I was reaching the finale of the journey. The last seven minute walk led me to the most impressive one of all.
Kaminoyama Castle Foot Bath
With a vantage point of the castle, I enjoyed the final, gratifying warmth. Zao mountains, the distant sound of a train passing by, and nearby children playing in the park. Even though the hot spring was burning, the value in accepting myself and belonging to the beauty of the moment was just enough to make me stay.
With the flushed pink imprint all the way up to my calves, I returned to Kaminoyama-Onsen Station in fifteen minutes. The hot spring magic had done its work! I was completely relaxed, satisfied, and glad to have made the journey.
While the foot baths can be visited in any order, the map below displays the most convenient route from and to Kaminoyama-Onsen Station. Consider this activity for the perfect weekend trip in Yamagata Prefecture.
