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Tsubo-yu Onsen

A small onsen but a big World Heritage Site

There are thousands of onsen in Japan but Tsubo-yu beats them all. Not only is it one of the oldest hot spring baths in the country but it's arguably the smallest, and definitely the only bathing spot in the whole world that is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Located in a quaint, somewhat isolated valley along the Yunotani River in the Kumano Mountains, Tsubu-yu is no more than a tiny wooden cabin set atop the river. Inside the cabin is a small bath tube made of rock that has space for exactly two people – perfect for couples getting in together!

The locals swear that any couples bathing in Tsubo-yu together hugely improve their chances of getting babies. If this sounds a bit like a miracle to you then let me tell you that it wouldn’t be the first miracle performed at Tsubo-yu.

Popular Kabuki plays recount the tale of 15thcentury prince-turned wandering masseur Oguri Hangan and maiden Terute. Oguri got poisoned but Terute saved him from certain death.

She must have been madly in love with the guy as she drags the half-dead man across the country to the holy lands of Kumano where he baths in sacred hot spring waters that fully restore his health and strength. This is said to have happened at Tsubu-yu.

Japanese movie enthusiasts might want to check out Toshiaki Toyoda’s film that re-tells the story in “The Blood of Rebirth” released in 2009.

Whatever magical recovery you're after, you must pay yen 750 (adult fee) and wait your turn before you can enjoy Tsubo-yu onsen. In time slots of 30 minutes between 6:00 and 21:30, bathers queue to get into the healing waters.

The onsen waters contain sulfur, natrium and hydrogen carbonate and are considered to be effective for healing neuralgia, rheumatism, diabetes and skin disease.

The water supposedly changes color seven times a day but I did not manage to get into the bath a second time to be able to verify the truth of it.

Tsubo-yu is located in Yunomine, a small village near Hongu Town in the south of Wakayama Prefecture. Yunomine is a hot spring village as there are many places where you can enjoy an onsen bath apart from Tsubo-yu.

Many minshuku and ryokan located along the Yunotani River actually have their own hot spring baths and their guests can use them for free.

Unlike many hot spring resorts in Japan, there are no large concrete buildings here that spoil the landscape. Instead there are small wooden houses nestled into the mountain slopes on both sides of the river.

If you're looking for an authentic onsen experience, this is the place to come!

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Alena Eckelmann Author 3 years ago
Tsuboyu is open for business! The public bath in Yunomine is closed for renovation but this small onsen hut across the river is open (March 25 2021).
Terrie Lloyd 6 years ago
I can testify that this is an awesome little spa town in the middle of nowhere, that elegantly captures the essence of ancient Japan. In fact we stayed at an inn about 20 meters further up the river on the lefthand side. That was an amazing experience as well. You really need a rental car to visit this location and to appreciate the countryside.
Mackenzie Scott 12 years ago
I'd never heard about this place but now I absolutely want to go to the little onsen. Do you have to stand in line to wait or do they have a sign-up sheet or some sort of reservation system?
Terrie Lloyd 6 years ago
If it's not being used, you seem to be able to simply slip in there. We took the safe route and asked the lady managing the inn to give us a good time to go in.

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