Trekking on Mount Zao

Revered by hikers and nature lovers

By Alena Eckelmann    - 4 min read

Mount Zao is nowadays not the object of worship of any religion like some other mountains in Japan but it is mainly revered by hikers and nature lovers in summer and by skiers and snowboarders in winter.

However, a closer look around in the area gives many clues that once pilgrims and mountain ascetics came to this area to venerate their deities.

In fact, Mt. Zao is not one single mountain but is the collective name of a whole mountain range of volcanic peaks that make up the Zao Quasi-National Park. This national park was designated in 1963 and it comprised of almost 400 square kilometers, stretching across the borders of Yamagata Prefecture into Miyagi Prefecture.

There are three areas – Zao North, Zao Middle and Zao South – but the main hiking area lies in Zao Chuo (Middle Zao) where the Kumano Peak and the Okama Crater Lake can be found.

Symbol of the park is the large Okama Crater Lake. It is also called Goshiki Numa, the Five-Color-Lake, as its waters appear to change color several times during the day. With its 1,000 meters in perimeter, the lake seems like a huge green eye looking out of the otherwise moon-like landscape.

A number of hiking trails lead to the top of the crater and to the Okama Crater Lake. While the lower slopes of the mountain are covered with alpine trees, the ridge is quite barren.

What looks like harmless alpine trees in summer turns into fearsome “snow monsters” in winter once the trees are covered in snow and frozen. Juhyo (“silver thaw”), as they are called by the Japanese, become a major attraction in the colder season when Mount Zao and Zao Onsen come to live as a popular ski resort.

During the warmer season, however, you don’t need to be afraid of monsters. The Zao Sanroku Ropeway takes you across Juhyo Kogen, the highland where the “snow monsters” appear in winter, and it whisks you up to the top of the mountain in no time.

This is the top of Jizo-san, the Jizo Mountain where a large statue of Jizo, the guardian of death spirits and the protector of travelers was set in stone in 1775.

It is said that this statue was erected to protect the souls of those pilgrims who died walking on the mountain at a day and age when the trails were less developed than they are today. I suppose the Jizo also protects those visitors who walk on the Zao slopes today.

Follow the path over Jizo Mountain (1,736m) and Kumano Mountain (1,841m) to Okama crater lake. During hiking season from May to October nature lovers and mountaineers walk up the slopes and they enjoy the wide open space and the alpine flora.

The Zao Sanroku Ropeway is in Zao Onsen, a small onsen resort town. This ropeway runs every day at 15 minute intervals between 8-15pm and the return journey costs yen 1,400.

A bus from Yamagata Station in Yamagata City takes you directly to Zao Onsen bus terminal. The journey takes 40 minutes and costs Yen 840. The Zao Onsen Tourist Information Office is near the bus stop. They have an excellent map of the resort town in English.

You will be spoiled for choice if you decide to stay overnight. There are countless of lodges, pensions and small and big hotels in this resort. Many of them can be found along Juhyo Dori and Takayu Dori, the two main streets in town.

Don’t be surprised to find places like “Lodge Tirol” and “Petite Hotel Sonne” or a restaurant called “Fressgasse” (in German language something line “Munching Alley”), Zao Onsen has a Town Partnership with Tirol in Austria, hence the Austrian touch to some places.

You will be equally spoilt for choice for hotspring baths. There are at least six in the village, two of which are open-air baths. Enquire at the Tourist Office and take your pick!

More info

Find out more about Mount Zao.

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Alena Eckelmann

Alena Eckelmann @alena.eckelmann

Founder of Kii Monogatari, my story and the story of the Kii Peninsula of Japan. Originally from East Germany, I came to Tokyo, via Berlin and London, in 2005. In summer 2011 I moved by choice to remote Kumano in the south of the Kii Peninsula where I live, work and play now, and explore every day.The whole of the Kii Peninsula is a Healing Hub for me with its abundance of forest, mountains, rivers, waterfalls, the ocean, friendly rural communities and sacred places. This is where nature meets spirituality, and tradition meets sustainability, the new paradigm for travel post-pandemic. My deep interest is in Japanese nature & spirituality. I love being in nature, in the forest and in the mountains, and I love spending time at temples and shrines.  I am building my life and my work around these two passions. I am a Licensed Forest Therapy (Shinrin Therapy) Guide and a Licensed Kumano Kodo and Koyasan Guide. I am also a Licensed Retreat Facilitator and I am planning retreats on the Kii Peninsula. Last but not least, I have been the Japan Travel Partner for Wakayama and Yamagata since the conception of the platform in 2011! These two prefectures are close to my heart because they are the centers of Shugendo, a spiritual tradition of mountain ascetism. I am a Shugendo Practitioner for over ten years now and received Tokudo in 2016 at a Shugendo temple on Yoshinoyama. Please kindly connect via my Facebook Page Kii Monogatari. Take care, keep well, stay safe! 

Join the discussion

Novia Mardasari 9 months ago
Ist the track recommended for beginner? Or heavy track?
Alena Eckelmann Author a year ago
The hiking season on Zao usually runs from late May to mid October, so November might be too late. Gaga Onsen Tozan-guchi is one trailhead. You can also start from Zao Onsen village, Zao-sancho on the other end. For a day hike, I would stay start and return to Zao Onsen, and even take the ropeway to shorten the climbing time.
Charles Camasura a year ago
I love to climb this mountain on November! Any suggestions on where can I park my car and start my climb? much appreciated.