Aoni Onsen

A remote ryokan lit only by old oil lamps

By Sandro Bernardinello    - 5 min read

Imagine an old wooden building, a traditional Japanese ryokan, hidden in a valley somewhere in a remote area of the Aomori Prefecture. Surrounded by a thick forest and built along a stream near a waterfall, this place will make you go back to hundred years ago.

Aoni Onsen is truly out of ordinary and it's different from any other accommodation. What makes it so unique is the complete absence of any electricity, no power plugs and no wifi. The only use they make of it is for cooking and for the emergency exit signals. During the day the only source of light is the sun. After dark more than one hundred old oil lamps flood every corner with a warm and soft light. The shadows get deeper and everything looks smoother. The atmosphere is incredibly relaxing and the whole place seems to be back in the past.

The side road that leads to the ryokan is steep, narrow and not even paved after a certain point. In winter is possible to reach the location only with the private shuttle due to the heavy snow. The sight of the small group of buildings at the end of the street is somehow a relief. When entering the main building you will find yourself in a wide hall, a group of five oil lamps lit up the dark wood ceiling and the countless objects and paintings decorating the walls. A long corridor leads you to the stairs and up to your room. The wooden floor creaks under your steps and, sliding the door open, it reveals a traditional and clean tatami room. The wide window is open and lets the green light from the forest lit the place. At the same time, the only oil lamp lights up the ceiling with its warm flickering flame. On a traditional Japanese table (kotatsu 炬燵) you will find the usual cups for green tea, a fresh smelling yukata and two towels. The only audible sound is the one of the water rushing in the nearby river.

Any respectable Japanese traditional accommodation has baths where to rest your body and soul. Aoni Onsen won't disappoint you in this regard. You will find four different baths waiting for you:

  • Kenroku no yu: built in cypress wood (Hiba ひば), it's lit by two lamps and the smell of wood fills up the air. The wide windows open on the forest and river letting the fresh wind flowing inside.
  • Rotenburo: literally "open air bath", it's built with dark rocks that shine in a blue-purple hue in the sunlight. There are also another two smaller baths next to the main one. This is mixed gender so you will need to wear a bathing suit. During the day two time slots are reserved for women only.
  • Uchi no yu: this indoor bath is located in the main building. It's the smallest of the four but the pungent smell of cypress wood is particularly intense here. It's absolutely a must-try.
  • Takimi no yu: located in a separated building, this bath is made of both stones and wood. During the day you can also enjoy the view on a 30-meter high waterfall on the nearby hillside. There is also a small outdoor bath in the backyard.

I personally suggest trying all of them and the best moment is probably at dusk. At that time the outdoor light is not strong enough to light up the interiors but it will still let you enjoy the view on the beautiful forest. In the meantime the warm light from the lamps will softly flood the ambience giving that touch that makes this place so special.

To complete the picture, the dinner served here is also nearly flawless. As expected, the meal is the traditional Japanese style: miso-soup, fish, a stew of vegetables and meat and several smaller side dishes. Everything is tasty and delicious. The dining room is lit by a series of lamps and presents the same magical atmosphere typical of the place. Furthermore here everybody eats together; all the guests sit at long common tables one next to the other. This will give you the opportunity to meet new people and to connect with locals as the majority of the guests here are Japanese.

Before going back to your room, give yourself the time to go out for a walk. The remote location, far away from any light pollution, makes the night darker and the starry sky is absolutely amazing. Moreover, as the baths are open 24 hours, you should not miss the chance to enjoy a "private" bath. The sound of the river, the oil lamps, the cypress smell in the air: an experience that you won't easily forget.

Tip: if you want to be sure to find a room, book several weeks in advance.

Getting there

If you don't have a car, reaching this place is pretty challenging. From Hirosaki Station get a train to Kuroishi (Konan Line). Here you need to get a bus to Nijinoko and finally get the private shuttle bus that will drive you to the ryokan.

The shuttle bus timetable is here.

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Sandro Bernardinello

Sandro Bernardinello @sandro.bernardinello

Born on a cold day in December 1984, I am a computer engineer in Verona. I love martial arts, travel, Japan, food and of course photography. Photography is not only looking for beautiful pictures, it's more, much more; It means keeping memories, details, and moments that will inevitably become more and more blurred in our memory; it means waking up when everyone is sleeping; getting excited at the frost or under a thunderstorm when everyone is running away; learning to wait and knowing the surrounding environment; looking for new places and exploring forgotten ones, it means being able to see and enjoy what is surrounding us learning to observe with different eyes.

Join the discussion

Sandro Bernardinello Author 11 months ago
It's absolutely a must for me! ^_^
Elizabeth Scally 11 months ago
Just looking at the photos and reading your description is relaxing. What a place to unplug.
Kim B 11 months ago
What a beautiful step back in time! This place looks charming - I want to visit!