Perhaps a little too well known amongst many people is Miura beach in Kanagawa which, if not for the swarming summertime crowds, could otherwise be an enjoyable place to go. If like me, sharing a beach with endless hoards of people isn’t your idea of fun then there is a great alternative option close by.
Located only a couple of kilometers away near ‘Cape Tsurugi’, on the southern tip of the Miura Peninsula is a great coastal walk that passes through many sandy bays, rocky cliff tops and the odd cave just to add to the fun. In addition to having some spectacular views, this is the closet you will come to experiencing an almost empty beach.
The starting point for this walk can easily be reached by taking any bus bound for Cape Tsurugizaki (剣崎). These depart frequently from bus stand #2 outside of Miura Kaigan train station on the Keikyu line. The ride takes about ten minutes and costs 200 Yen. Get off at ‘Togari’ (鋒), bus stop where the sudden sea breeze hits you like a slap in the face.
To Cape Tsurugi, it’s about a two hour walk along partly rugged coastline. This course can easily shortened by catching any bus from several points along the main road that runs parallel to the coast.
From Togari bus stop head south along the pavement for about eight minutes until you reach a slope leading down to the shore. From here the path continues over some large rocks. Your adventure starts now!
Twenty minutes later you should reach the first sandy bay which, in stark contrast to the main beach several kilometers away, offers a good place to relax whilst admiring the scenery. If not for a few sunbathers I would have had this whole beach to myself.
You will soon notice that the only way forward is through a cave as the lower lying area is submerged by the sea. Although a little daunting at first, a naturally sunlit hole marks the clearly visible exit point.
Upon exiting this cave, you will immediately notice that the landscape has changed dramatically from a peaceful sandy bay into a barren rugged plain with seemingly endless rocky shelves and sharp cliff tops. This is where the real fun begins!
For the next hour you will encounter many large boulders, deep depressions and several nerve-testing cliff tops where the only way through is by scaling along the narrow edges. As long as you take your time and apply common sense then this should be an enjoyable experience that doesn`t require any special rock climbing skills.
Along the way you will see many birds including Black Winged Kites hovering majestically above you. Quite unexpectedly, I stumbled across several sea fossils scattered along the coast.
Just when it felt like there was no end to this barren rocky landscape I came across a much welcomed sight, a large sandy bay with a white lighthouse in the distance. Although it’s only about a thirty minute walk to the lighthouse, this beach is a great place to have lunch and watch the world go by.
After continuing on for several minutes you will enter a pleasant looking harbor with several fishing boats. To reach the lighthouse, walk up the hill for several more minutes where you will be presented with some excellent views. On clear days it is possible to see as far as the ‘Boso’ Peninsula in Chiba.
From the lighthouse you can either walk southwards for twenty minutes along the main road to the nearest bus stop or continue along the coast for another forty minutes until you reach ‘Matsuka Kaigan’, (松輪海岸).
Without doubt, the latter option has some spectacular views of large ‘water sprays` that are caused by the waves constantly crashing into the rocky coast. However, don`t get too close as you risk being washed into the sea.
Several minutes later you will reach the pretty little fishing harbor of Matsuwa Kaigan where the bus stop can be found on the main road.
On the ride back to Miura Kaigan Station, you will see some of the route you have just done. When nearing the station you will be able to catch another look at the main beach which no doubt will still be swarming with people; a world apart from the peace and tranquility of Cape Tsurugi.
