Riding the Kuroshio Train

On the Train to Kumano - Option 1

By Alena Eckelmann    - 3 min read

As the Chinese proverb says: “a journey starts with the first step”. Let’s re-phrase this to “your journey to Kumano starts with riding the Kuroshio”.

The Kuroshio is a limited express train operated by Japan Railway (JR) that takes you from Kyoto via Osaka Shingu City, one of the gateways to Kumano, "the land of the Gods" and to the Kumano Kodo old pilgrimage trails.

This is an alternative route to Kumano as opposed to riding the Wideview Nanki Express, an express train that connects Nagoya with Shingu.

Shingu seems a kind of remote and difficult to get to compared to other locations in the Kansai area, which is probably why not many visitors to Japan put Kumano and the Kumano Kodo on their itinerary. The area is not even mentioned in the big-name Japan guidebooks! Those who take the time to come here will not be disappointed though.

The train journey will take you from Kyoto through Shin-Osaka and Tennoji (in Osaka) before reaching Wakayama City, the capital of Wakayama Prefecture. Then it continues all around the Western side of the Kii Peninsula and via Kii Tanabe to Shirahama Onsen at the peninsula’s southernmost tip. From there the train line runs back up on the Eastern side of the peninsula to the train terminal in Shingu City.

On your way from Kyoto to Shingu try to get seats on the right side of the train for the best views of the Kii Peninsula’s coast line as the train is running along the coast almost the entire way.

The stretch from Osaka to Kii-Tanabe looks very urban and industrial. You will see many oil refineries and industrial plants along the coast. There are some windmills on the hills to generate electricity and many fruit plantations and hot houses for growing vegetables.

Once Kii-Tanabe is passed you can enjoy panoramic views of the ocean, of picturesque fishermen’s villages and of countless little bays and rock formations along the coast. The area between Kii-Tanabe and Shingu is extremely rural and mountainous, probably as rural and mountainous as it gets in Japan.

For your enjoyment, you will have the sea on one side and the mountains on the other side of the train. This is a great journey to get you right into the mood for exploring the Kumano area!

There are several services running throughout the day. Visitors to Japan who hold a Japan Rail Pass can use these trains unrestrictedly.

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Alena Eckelmann

Alena Eckelmann @alena.eckelmann

Founder of Kii Monogatari, my story and the story of the Kii Peninsula of Japan. Originally from East Germany, I came to Tokyo, via Berlin and London, in 2005. In summer 2011 I moved by choice to remote Kumano in the south of the Kii Peninsula where I live, work and play now, and explore every day.The whole of the Kii Peninsula is a Healing Hub for me with its abundance of forest, mountains, rivers, waterfalls, the ocean, friendly rural communities and sacred places. This is where nature meets spirituality, and tradition meets sustainability, the new paradigm for travel post-pandemic. My deep interest is in Japanese nature & spirituality. I love being in nature, in the forest and in the mountains, and I love spending time at temples and shrines.  I am building my life and my work around these two passions. I am a Licensed Forest Therapy (Shinrin Therapy) Guide and a Licensed Kumano Kodo and Koyasan Guide. I am also a Licensed Retreat Facilitator and I am planning retreats on the Kii Peninsula. Last but not least, I have been the Japan Travel Partner for Wakayama and Yamagata since the conception of the platform in 2011! These two prefectures are close to my heart because they are the centers of Shugendo, a spiritual tradition of mountain ascetism. I am a Shugendo Practitioner for over ten years now and received Tokudo in 2016 at a Shugendo temple on Yoshinoyama. Please kindly connect via my Facebook Page Kii Monogatari. Take care, keep well, stay safe! 

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