Oishi Kogen, a "Highlight Highland" in Autumn

Pampas grass adventures on a road trip to Kimino

By Alena Eckelmann    - 3 min read

I had seen the Sengokuhara pampas grass field in Hakone before but did not expect to find an even larger field of this silver grass just at my doorsteps in the north of Wakayama Prefecture. A late autumn road trip took me to Oishi Kogen, a highland just south of Osaka Prefecture, where a large field of pampas grass awaits visitors. The Oishi Kogen pampas grass is famous in Kansai!

Pampas grass is called susuki in Japanese. Although susuki grows almost everywhere in the Japanese countryside, city-dwellers are known to flock to large fields of susuki in autumn.

Pampas grass is known as one of the "Seven Flowers of Autumn". Did you know that? The other six are: Bush Clover, Kuzu Vine, Morning Glory, Fringed Pink, and Ominaeshi and Fujibakama, for which I don't know the English names.

Well, did you know then that susuki was once used to thatch the roofs of houses? In the area at the base of Oishi Kogen, and in other places in Wakayama Prefecture and nearby Nara Prefecture, one can still see some of the old thatched-roof houses. They have become a rare sight now.

Come with a group of friends and enjoy the beautiful views of pampas grass, and more.
Come with a group of friends and enjoy the beautiful views of pampas grass, and more.

The view of pampas grass in late autumn tells you that winter is coming soon.

At a height of 870 meters lies a large plain of pampas grass (13 hectare), even larger than I had seen before. I think this is the best pampas grass land in the Kansai area. There are some rocky peaks and also some observation platforms from where it is easy to overlook the whole area.

The tall grass, even higher than a human, changes its color from golden around September to silvery-white at the end of October and the middle of November.

One of the rocky spots is very popular for taking photos. If you shoot at the right angle, it looks as if you sit on a very high cliff.

A popular photo spot on Oishi Kogen!
A popular photo spot on Oishi Kogen!

A windy road leads all the way up to the highland. There is a parking lot and a rest area with a small restaurant and souvenir shop. For those who are serious outdoor fans, there is a small campsite with no facilities. So, stock up on your snacks and drinks when you want to watch the night sky over Oishi Kogen, which is also a popular activity.

The trails through the pampas grass are well marked and walkers might enjoy a short hike all the way to the other end of the large field. The lazy ones can just hang around the area near the rest area. Just a few minutes walking from the parking lot and you stand in the middle of the silver grass.

This is perfect for a half-day trip but you can easily make it a whole day out here by just sitting down for a picnic and enjoying the view, then take a walk across the pampas grass field, or even go for a longer hike. There are some long hike options. While it is also possible to come here in spring and in summer, the most scenic season for Oishi Kogen is autumn.

There are panoramic 360-degree views of the area around. You can see all the way to the ocean in the far back and see the wind farms on the hills of Kainan. On a clear day you can even see Mount Rokko, Awaji Island and Shikoku Island.

The sun setting over the ocean can be seen from Oishi Kogen.
The sun setting over the ocean can be seen from Oishi Kogen.

Getting there

Access is best by car. I suggest you rent a car or drive your own, if you live in Japan. You can rent a car at Kainan Station on the JR Kinokuni Line. It is a 45 minutes drive to the top of Oishi Kogen.

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Alena Eckelmann

Alena Eckelmann @alena.eckelmann

Founder of Kii Monogatari, my story and the story of the Kii Peninsula of Japan. Originally from East Germany, I came to Tokyo, via Berlin and London, in 2005. In summer 2011 I moved by choice to remote Kumano in the south of the Kii Peninsula where I live, work and play now, and explore every day.The whole of the Kii Peninsula is a Healing Hub for me with its abundance of forest, mountains, rivers, waterfalls, the ocean, friendly rural communities and sacred places. This is where nature meets spirituality, and tradition meets sustainability, the new paradigm for travel post-pandemic. My deep interest is in Japanese nature & spirituality. I love being in nature, in the forest and in the mountains, and I love spending time at temples and shrines.  I am building my life and my work around these two passions. I am a Licensed Forest Therapy (Shinrin Therapy) Guide and a Licensed Kumano Kodo and Koyasan Guide. I am also a Licensed Retreat Facilitator and I am planning retreats on the Kii Peninsula. Last but not least, I have been the Japan Travel Partner for Wakayama and Yamagata since the conception of the platform in 2011! These two prefectures are close to my heart because they are the centers of Shugendo, a spiritual tradition of mountain ascetism. I am a Shugendo Practitioner for over ten years now and received Tokudo in 2016 at a Shugendo temple on Yoshinoyama. Please kindly connect via my Facebook Page Kii Monogatari. Take care, keep well, stay safe! 

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Alena Eckelmann Author a month ago
The perfect place for getting into an autumn mood without actually looking at colorful leaves.
Elena Lisina a month ago
Beautiful views, especially on such a good weather!
Kim a month ago
Nice find! Such a beautiful sight in autumn 😊